News – November 2008


Saturday 15th November - C2C and Reivers back ~ Extracts from a diary

 

Bob MacDowall and Paul Welch (June 2008)

Paul wanted to celebrate his 60th birthday with something slightly different. Bob said he could play too and thought Glenys Ennis’s idea of the Sea to Sea (the C2C) ride from Whitehaven in the Lake District, by the Irish Sea, to Tynemouth, by the North Sea, was a great idea. We had a 5 day pass from our lovely wives, Jenny and Di, so returning via the Reivers Route would add an extra challenge. So this is what we did:-

 

The route in summary:-

Day                         From and to                                           Day’s Distance     Trail Distance      Aggregate Distance

Monday                 Start of C2C

Whitehaven to Greystoke                                  48                                                        48

 

Tuesday                               Greystoke to Rowlands Gill                                71                                                       119

 

Wednesday          End of C2C:-

Rowlands Gill to Tynemouth                             19            C2C 138 miles

                                Start of Reivers Trail:-

                                Northshields to Bellingham                                50

                                Total for Wednesday                                          69                                                        188

 

Thursday               Bellingham to Westlinton                                   59

                                Westlinton to Blackford for Dandy

Campsite, then flog to Rockcliffe & back

for Pub Supper                                                       5

                                Total for Thursday                                              64                                                         252

 

Friday                     Back to route                                                          1

                                Westlinton to Whitehaven                                                64                                           

                                Total for Friday                                                    65            Reivers 179 miles               317

 

NB                          Total split as:

                                Actual route                                                         311        

                                Odd diversions, etc !...say                                      6                                                       317

 

Monday ~ 48 miles

Started the 138 miles C2C Sustrans Route today, an excellent and well-signposted route of 138 miles covering quiet lanes, converted railway lines, and excellent roughstuff tracks. Happy boys as the weather was sunny at 6.00 a.m. (as was Paul, despite a nagging cough all week, but apart from spluttering at night it didn’t affect him much otherwise).We had just a little earlier arrived at Parton, just outside Whitehaven, to park our car at Jim Lewinson’s house, he is a Sustrans ranger, and together with his shaggy dog, gave us a great greeting to Cumbria. Imaginative packing and loading had been required of panniers, tent, and sleeping bags, onto our battered old mountain bikes, trained like Bob and Paul on the West Kent Roughstuff. We then wobbled off to start our 5 days adventure at the official start in Whitehaven on one of the many excellent cycle paths and tracks we would use for the next few days, a spectacular path hugging the coastline below the cliffs.

Breakfasted in Macdonalds, sustaining but not quite the usual traditional fry-up !

Friendly and expectant photos were snapped at the start signified by the modern stainless steel C2C sign at the harbour in Whitehaven, back wheels were dipped in this the Irish Sea, following a nice new tradition, and we looked forward to dipping the front wheels in the North Sea at Tynemouth when we finished. Started with several other groups, one group from a twinned town near Cologne in Germany, and a smaller group led by a lassie Bob nick-named “Phillipa”.

Wound our way through Whitehaven and onto the converted railway track for a very pleasant gentle climb into the countryside, passed lots of attractive signposts depicting local activities and rode through the remains of old stations.

Later joined quiet twisting lanes with great views of the Lakes, and enjoyed a long climb up Whinlatter Pass. Enjoyed even more the great off-road descent down to the flat road by Braithwaite for a picnic lunch overlooking Skidaw, Blencathra, and Keswick. Popped into the Tourist Information Office to get details of suitable campsites for the night near our planned stop at Langwathby, not a lot of luck....ummm! Carried on towards Penrith wondering where we might sleep, both a little bit quiet for a while, as we each thought to ourselves if this had been such a good idea after all, especially as the overnight drive from Kent and lack of sleep were catching up with us. Then, just outside Greystoke a clapper board at the side of the road declared...”Cyclists’ Barn and Bunkhouse at the Quirky Cafe...all welcome..one mile ahead”. Great relief and amazement..the “Quirkey Cafe” is like a Patterson sketch, a gorgeous stone farmhouse and barn, and the wonderful owner Annie gave us a a really warm welcome, allowed us to camp in the garden, and drink all the tea and coffee we wanted. Look the cafe up on www.greystokecyclecafe.co.uk, this is one of the most intriguing hostelries/cafes you’ll ever visit, and you simply pay what you feel is right into the honesty box. There was another warm welcome with great food and beer in the local pub, the “Boot & Shoe”, so we ended up with a terrific finish to the day....albeit 9 miles short of the 56 miles we needed. And yes, Greystoke is the village with the partly fortified Blencow Hall  where the story of Tarzan in England was set......argh oo argh oo argh !!

 

Tuesday ~ 71 miles

Woke up after a cold night to the splosh splosh of rain on the tent. Packed our gear, sat in the garden gazebo and tucked in to a great bowl of home made porridge topped with fresh honey; ”pay what you want” said our delightful host, ”and lock up when you go”, leaving the place to us as she took her son to school !

Long day today, through the rain to Carlisle, lovely assistant in the Penrith bike shop, on to 11’s in the bus shelter at Langwathby, where Bob chatted to a local waiting for the weekly Fellrunner bus. Then lots of climbing, slight hold up behind a shepherd with a large flock of sheep following our lane for a mile. Great descent, then straight over the road to the track, some track ! All uphill, rideable for a while, then off and pushing, nose on handlebars, till we eventually arrived at the Cafe at top of Hartside Fell; Phillipa’s group in the cafe already, but they went via the roads, softies! Very windy and wet again! Great drop now though, strong wind behind, glad I had disc brakes, I think Bob wished he had too! Now another climb and good drop down to Nenthead. Still raining and blowing! More climbs to Allenheads where we stopped for 4’s and met Phillipa’s group again, they had finished for the day and couldn’t believe we were continuing for another 30 miles that day ! Great roughstuff climb now, rideable for two miles on stones and rocks to the summit, then a tremendous ride across the moors of Stanhope and Edmondbyers Commons, remote and sunny at last, but so windy...we could hardly keep a straight line as the wind tried to grab the handlebars from us...but challenging riding and great views all the way to Parkhead Station. This ex-railway station seems to have been used in the past for a mineral quarry railway line, climbing up from Consett in the glory days of steam and the iron and steel industry. Now it was just a cyclists’ dream of a track, the Waskerly Way. All we had to do was follow this converted railway line, the best SUSTRANS track I know, 15 miles downhill with the wind behind, the sun above, glorious views, and clever winding routes through the towns and villages, spotting dis-used steel making equipment from Consett’s past glory days at the centre of the steel industry. We finally arrived at our planned and achieved stop for the night at Rowlands Gill to the smell of fish and chips at “the best chippy in Newcastle”. Supper solved we thought, so pitched our tent and went back to the chippy, but now closed ! So up to the local Italian Restuarant only to see the owner put up his closed sign! So then “a short twenty minutes walk” to the Italian take-away run by two large Newcastle folk for a lasagne, very cosmopolitan, and a 40 minute walk back to our campsite to tuck in....bit hungry now...but memorable!

 

Wednesday ~ 69 miles

Challenge today, tent put away wet again, but weather then cleared for an easy and sunny first bit of riding down into Newcastle, where we then followed the Tyne through the city of bridges, including the classic iron swing bridge, and the magnificent Millenium Bridge which we crossed with some awe. Onwards through Wallsend, arriving on the edge of Northshields where we nearly lost each other with 8 miles to go to the end of the C2C. “Must swap mobile phone numbers to make sure this doesn’t happen again” we agreed. Onwards again with some relief, finally getting to the coast and the official end of the route at Tynemouth by mid-day, but couldn’t quite dip our front wheels in the sea to complete the tradition, it was 40 feet below the cliffs!

Celebrated the finish by tucking in to real fish and chips at the traditional old “Kristians Fish Restaurant” at Fish Quay in North Shields, a fitting end to this part of our adventure.

 

Now we had to get to Bellingham from here as this was also the start of the Reivers Route, a 173 miles route which we wanted to follow to complete the circuit back to Whitehaven.

An excellent route too, similar to the C2C with great lanes, converted railway lines and Waggonways, as well as superb tracks; though nowhere near as well signposted as the C2C, take care and a map when you ride this trail.

 

We followed the Waggonway, an aged sloped railway for simple wooden wagons built before the days of steam trains, out of Northshields towards Ponteland. This was an excellent and easy ride away from the built up towns and into the countryside again.

Be careful how you pronounce Ponteland, we were working out the next part of the route from there when a local vicar on a scooter stopped to offer help. It seemed Paul may have innocently caused offence as the vicar gently guided Paul to say Ponteeee-land, not Ponty-land, maybe it rhymes with something else ! Anyway, he was an affable vicar, suggested a quick route to Bellingham via the main road and couldn’t believe the route we actually wanted to follow, said he admired our spirit, then blessed and wished us well as he roared off...one mile later we got lost again !

 

Back on course we then began serious climbing, and the rain began serious falling, and the countryside became seriously remote. After a dark afternoon of serious wet riding we finally saw the signs for Bellingham and just hoped the Bunkhouse we were planning to stay at was open, easy to find, and not at the top of a hill. Once again we were lucky as we stopped at the first cottage in Bellingham and this turned out to be that of the Warden for the Bunkhouse, and the Bunkhouse was just opposite, so we were able to quickly book in, dry out and warm up. With imaginative use of bungy straps and some old leather toe straps we then hung our tent in the barn next door to dry out overnight, and tucked the soggy bikes into the stone cowshed for a rest. Phil, not Phillipa this time, was the only other resident that night. He was a friendly chap and half-way through a charity walk from Lands End to John O Groats, the things some people will do for pleasure! Anyway we needed a Pub Supper, Phil had already eaten, so just Bob and Paul popped out to the Local where Paul got chatting to a friendly Scots chap. Paul paid for our beers but was 10p short, and the Scotsman paid! Lucky again! This made Paul’s day and gave us a good night’s sleep, too!

 

Thursday ~ 64 miles

Real roughstuff day today. Good weather too. Steady climbs up to Falstone and an excellent cafe in the converted schoolhouse. Then continued climbing up to the Dam end of Kielder Reservoir ! Fabulous views, fantastic spread of water, and an excellent 8 mile ride round the edge of the reservoir to the start of 15 miles of superb off road tracks through the Kielder Forest from the mouth of Lewis Burn to Bailey Mill. This was high, remote and rugged country and included crossing the English border over a splendid wooden bridge, and four miles of downhill picturesque delightful tracks in Scotland, before we then wound back into England. We then rolled, generally, downhill for 24 miles into gentler softer country again. Just got lost a little around Bewcastle and a very friendly and helpful farmer guided us back on route, albeit rather bemused by our insistence that we didn’t want to go the direct way but wanted to follow the longer official route instead ! Finally got to our planned stop near Westlinton, just one mile off the official route at the Dandy Campsite in Blackford. This was great, but after pitching our tent we had to flog another 2 miles to Rockford for a pub supper again, just got there with ten minutes to spare, didn’t really need those extra miles but the beer and the grub was good, not so keen on the marauding midges on the way back though !

 

Friday ~ 65 miles

Last day; the first morning we were able to break camp in the dry, sunny all day and a great route through gorgeous country. Started alongside the River Eden and the salt marshes and then rode into Carlisle, crossing the Millenium Bridge near the splendid Castle. Lost the route on the way out of town but, lucky again, cloth-capped Barry, a very local local, riding an old sports tourer bike with chrome ends, led us back onto the cycle track by the side of the River Caldew. Amid banter from his mates along the track of “Got your own cycle club now Barry?” we rode in echelon behind him until he had to stop then return home, having pointed the way we should continue to Dalston. Excellent 11’s here and after bacon butties we began some gentle climbing towards Caldbeck. From here we puffed up a particularly tough climb and carried straight on after Branthwaite for yet another great track, having a traditional lunch stop by a chattering brook. The descent was fabulous down to Over Water Lake with the Caldbeck Fells on our left, and lead us back with a colourful entry into the Lake District again, skirting round the edge and giving wonderful views into the hills beyond.

 

But it was near here that Paul lost Bob again! Paul had stopped to take some photos and Bob went slowly on ahead. Paul then flogged on because he thought Bob had flogged on, but Bob wasn’t there for the next four miles. We hadn’t swapped mobile phone numbers after all and Paul finally needed to phone our wives to get each other’s own phone numbers so that we could phone each other and get riding together again...how embarrassing was that ! Sigh of relief when we finally met up again, Bob had missed one of the many signs that wasn’t there! So we rode very close together from then on, and in good weather and countryside to Cockermouth, quite a trendy town these days. Followed the lanes out to Camerton and then joined yet another excellent ex-railway line converted to cycle and footpath. This was a splendid downhill route past monolithic wind turbines, with classic views to the sea, and wound down into Workington. Once through the town we then got back on the cyclepath and rode towards the outskirts of Whitehaven, where we needed all our touring skills to work out which way next as some major road works were disrupting routes as well as cutting a rather ugly swathe through this magnificent scenery. Success though and we joined the last part of the route where it clings closely to the foot of the cliffs via the coast track.

 

We finished with the backdrop of a setting sun and placid sea back almost where we started, five days later, on Friday evening at 8.00 p.m. True to form of the poor signing throughout the Reivers Route though, we never did find the official finish and couldn’t dip our wheels in the sea again, so took some pictures by Whitehaven Harbour to prove we had got back anyway.

 

We had ridden, wobbled and walked the C2C and Reivers in 5 days, a truly unique route, especially on mountain bikes and camping; it’s a great circuit, although 5 days is probably a bit of a flog for this type of 317 miles, but it’s very enjoyable and we would recommend trying aspects of this to anyone, whatever their age! Now what will Bob want to do for his 60th ?.....I’ll be ancient by then !

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